The High Peaks Region of the Adirondack Park is a popular destination in Upstate New York for day hikers, backpackers, and climbers. Over 300 miles of trails traverse deciduous valleys, alpine summits, and isolated lakes. Restaurants and lodgings in nearby Keene Valley and Lake Placid offer the weary traveler a place to unwind and recharge.
My eleven day journey took me through seventy-five miles of this protected wilderness and through the quaint hamlet of Keene Valley. My stay, though altogether brief, afforded me a glimpse of the people and the places that make this region part of the essential Adirondack experience.
Favorite Time of Year
Autumn Trail
Autumn is the season of colors—the red, orange, and yellow of sugar maple, white birch, and red oak; the deep greens of moss, spruce, and balsam fir, the brown of fallen leaves; and the deep blue of clean waters and a clear sky. It is also the season of sounds—rustling leaves in the autumn wind, raucous geese flying south, and industrious wildlife fattening up for the winter. The air is cool, perfect for hiking. Black flies and mosquitoes retire for the year. This is my favorite season in the Adirondacks.
Favorite Hikes
Avalanche Lake
Visit gallery for Avalanche Pass
Photos of Avalanche Lake and Avalanche Pass at the end of this gallery
1. Avalanche Pass: In all the years I have hiked the Adirondack Park, I have yet to find a comparable trail. The trail follows a corridor between Avalanche Mountain and Mount Colden. From Adirondack Loj, the hike to Avalanche Lake is 8.8 miles round trip. Extending to the northwest shore of Lake Colden, the hike is 10.4 miles round trip. A passage from my journal best describes the experience:
“The transition to the pass was dramatic, displaying the awesome destructive potential of nature. In 1999, rain from Hurricane Floyd was responsible for many new landslides in the Adirondacks. We came upon the Mt. Colden landslide. The damage was extensive; acres of forest came sliding down the mountain right to the base of the trail. Fallen logs piled up to roughly ten feet in height and had to be cut away to make room for hikers. The sound alone of the landslide must have been horrendous.
“Traversing this wasteland, I felt like an ant. We were sandwiched between debris and vertical rock face. Both relented, leaving a winding trail ahead. The landscape did well to conceal the unexpected treasure of Avalanche Lake.
“Perhaps one of the most alluring views of the High Peaks Region is Avalanche Lake from the north. Mt. Colden to the east and Avalanche Mtn. to the west fall vertically into the lake. A small corridor of sky illuminates this hidden landscape. Smooth dead wood lines the silt-filled shore. Boulders jut out at random places. The snow clings to horizontal planes on the massive rock face.
“The passage through Avalanche Lake is quite messy at times, though it’s very exciting. Wooden bridges and ladders are everywhere. At a couple of points, catwalks are bolted right into the sheer rock face. I am truly thankful that I ditched the majority of my gear in my friend’s car; scrambling up boulders can be tricky with the instability of a massive backpack.
“Quite muddy now, we make our way to Lake Colden. To my surprise, we encounter two large cabins, one with a solar panel. I expected the interior outpost of Lake Colden to be a small affair—I was quite amazed. It must be a nice place to pass a season. The view of the lake was gorgeous. I could see a lean-to in the distance, a place I would love to spend a night.”
Mt. Marcy From the south side
2. Elk Lake-Marcy Trail: This is one of the longer routes to Mount Marcy, traversing over three miles of valley and the 700 ft ascent and descent of the Boreas-Colvin Range before beginning the ascent of Marcy. It’s an 11 mile hike from the parking lot at Elk Lake to the summit of Marcy, but well worth it. The trail passes over a long suspension bridge, deciduous forests, coniferous swamps, and a fragile arctic-alpine zone. This trail literally dissects the whole range of ecosystems in the Adirondacks, eventually reaching the highest summit in New York State. The less frequented approach from the south side of Marcy is altogether different from the north, affording a different perspective for those who have hiked Marcy from the frequented north side.
3. Mount Jo-Indian Pass: Sometimes it’s better just to have an easy day. The Mount Jo loop is only 2.5 miles, very quick and easy with great views of Heart Lake and the surrounding region. The trailhead is only about half a mile from the parking area. This is a picnic hike.
Another excellent but easy hike is the Indian Pass trail to Rocky Falls. The 2.1 mile hike has a very mild elevation profile. The falls aren’t spectacular, but the area is very pleasant and great for swimming in warmer weather. The nearby lean-to has one of the best views in the park.
Favorite Lean-tos
Taking over a lean-to
1. Marcy Dam: Located just 2.3 miles from Adirondack Loj, this is a popular camping area and a great place to meet people. Five lean-tos and many designated campsites line the dam. Sitting over the dam, one can see Phelps, Colden, and Algonquin. It’s a wonderful place for stargazing. Verizon phones have reception along the dam. Only 2.3 miles away, the information center near Adirondack Loj has a modest supply of food and gear.
During busy periods, this place will often get very packed. Bears are also a problem—it’s mandatory to have a bear bin (as well as in the rest of the Eastern Zone of the High Peaks Wilderness). For those who enjoy solitude, this may not be the place to stay.
2. Rocky Falls Lean-to: This lean-to overlooks Indian Pass Brook and is a matter of yards away from Rocky Falls and an excellent swimming area. The sights and sounds are very peaceful.
3. Boquet River Lean-to: This lean-to overlooks Boquet River. Campfires are allowed as well. This is a great area to rest before or after hitting Dix Mountain.
Lodgings
The lounge area of Adirondack Loj
1. Adirondack Loj: The Loj offers a combination of private rooms, family bunkrooms, and a co-ed loft. It is tucked well within the High Peaks Region, making it ideal for those who wish to spend a night in cozy accommodations before a lengthy trip, or for those who wish to wrap up a long stay in the wilderness. Heart Lake is just a few footsteps away with canoeing, fishing, and swimming options.
Perhaps the most alluring feature of the Loj is the lounge area. The birch log chandeliers, stone fireplace, exposed wood beams, and rustic furniture have a very warm character. It’s a great place to sip some coffee and surf the web via free Wi-Fi.
Breakfast is included with the stay. Dinner must be requested in advance. Both are good, not spectacular.
2. Ausable Inn: Located In Keene Valley right by a popular trailhead with parking—the Garden. The Ausable Inn offers overnight accommodations and breakfast. On the lower level, the full bar serves a variety of drinks as well as some fine ales. It’s a great place to get the pulse of an Adirondack community. The inn is also open for dinner in the evenings.
The inn is conveniently located right next to Valley Grocery, a quaint grocery store with standard fare as well as backpacker friendly items. A little down the road, there is an excellent mountaineering store with just about anything a backpacker or climber would need.
The only thing Keene Valley is missing is a laundromat.
Best Pies
Noon Mark Diner in Keene Valley makes some very famous homemade pies. The extensive varieties of pies fly off the shelf every day. They can even be ordered online or over the phone and shipped anywhere in the continental US.
